Ramen Redux

The Lucky Peach, the online magazine of David Chang's Momofuku group, has been on a roll lately. Jonathan Gold on what makes ramen so accessible to anyone:

Ramen offers the pleasures of communality and it offers the pleasures of extreme connoisseurship. It has those things over other foods. It’s not expensive. A college student can become an extreme ramen snob—your intern might know more about ramen than you. I think that ramen and tacos are the entry point for connoisseurship for a lot of young people.